The Abandoned churchyard at Eysey

Several years ago I joined an ‘expedition’ to discover the abandoned churchyard at Eysey and of course, as invariably happens when I start researching, I found a link to the parish of Lydiard Tregoze. Not this time to the St. John family and Lydiard Park, but the Willis farming family.

The medieval settlements of Eysey and Water Eaton were transferred to the parish of Latton, Cricklade in 1896 when they were by then just a few scattered cottages and farmsteads. The population of Eysey had always been a small one, just 95 adults in 1851 and only 52 in 1901.

The church of St Mary’s, Eysey dated from the 14^th century but was demolished and rebuilt in 1844. The Victorian church that replaced it stood empty for several years before it too was demolished in 1953. The parish registers date from 1571, and end in 1947 so as you can imagine there are a fair few burials in the churchyard. Today there is evidence of the boundary wall and some memorials but the whole area is heavily wooded and overgrown.

Amongst the nettles and fallen trees I found two perfectly preserved pink granite memorials both apparently dating from the 1920s and contained in a large family plot.

The inscription on one of the graves reads: In Loving Memory of Nelly, the dearly beloved wife of Henry John Horton who died at Eysey Manor Dec. 5^th 1924 aged 55 years. On the other side of the memorial the inscription reads: Also In Loving Memory of Henry John Horton her beloved husband who died Sept 1st 1924 aged 64 years. The third inscription reads: In loving memory of Charles James Horton a loving brother & uncle who passed away Jan. 24^th 1947, Aged 79 years.

In the neighbouring grave is a memorial to a mother and son. The inscription reads: In loving memory of Margaret the dearly beloved wife of Ernest Willis who died 24^th July 1958. Aged 95 years.

On the opposite side of the memorial was the inscription that would lead me to Lydiard Tregoze.

In Loving Memory of Ernest Willis dearly beloved younger son of Ernest and Margaret Willis late of Can Court Wilts. July 5^th 1891 – Feby 17^th 1924 He served in the King’s Own (Royal Lancaster) Regt. & Royal Air Force throughout the Great War.

The Horton family had nipped back and forth across the Wiltshire/Gloucestershire county borders, farming at various times at the Manor Farm, Inglesham, Wiltshire and Broadway Farm at Down Ampney in Gloucestershire.

The Willis family had moved from Stanford in Berkshire to the parish of Lydiard Tregoze where John Ambrose Willis married farmer’s daughter Harriet Ellison and raised a large family at Can Court Farm, owned by The Masters, Fellows, Scholars of Pembroke College, Oxford. (For a history of Can Court Farm you might like to visit).

John Ambrose Willis died in 1886 and is buried in the churchyard at St Mary’s, Lydiard Tregoze. His son Ernest took over the tenancy of the farm and in 1889 married Margaret Fanny Horton at Down Ampney parish church where a host of Horton’s are recorded as witnesses at the wedding. That same year Ernest’s sister Ellen Willis married Margaret’s brother Henry John Horton.

On census night in 1891 Ernest and Margaret Willis are recorded at Caln Court with their one year old son Edward Ambrose and Ernest’s brother Henry L. Willis who was visiting with his two children, Sarah and Robert.

Henry John and Ellen Willis are at Costow Farm, a neighbouring property across the parish boundary in Wroughton.

By 1901 the Willis family had moved to Caversham where Ernest worked as a ‘butcher & purveyor’ at 12 Church Street. The family were still living in Caversham at the time of the 1911 census. Ernest and Margaret had been married for 22 years. Still living at home was Edward Ambrose, their eldest son, who worked at a Clerk for the GWR, and their daughter Margaret Louisa. Younger son Ernest is not recorded with the rest of the family.

Ernest senior died the following year. He may be buried in the large family plot in Eysey, perhaps mentioned on the sunken kerbstone that surrounds the two large memorials.

In 1911 Henry John and Ellen were living at Eisey [Eysey] Manor where Ellen (Nelly) died in 1920 and Henry John four years later. Henry John left £43,648 17s 9d with probate granted to his brother Charles James Horton and his three sons Robert Willis Horton, Henry Horton and Charles Horton.

Margaret, meanwhile, moved to Swindon and a house in Westlecott Road. The son with whom she is buried died at the Sanatorium, Linford, Hampshire in 1924. On the eve of the Second World War Margaret was still living at Southwood, Westlecott Road with her bachelor brother Charles J. Horton. Charles died in 1947 and Margaret in 1958 aged 95.

Childrens’ Christmas Tea

Continuing the story of Elliot Woolford, farmer at Hook Farm from 1899-1941. On Friday December 31, 1915, as the impact of the deprivations of the First World War tighten, Elliot writes about the Childrens’ Christmas Tree – a big event on the local Christmas calendar held at the school in Hook, usually a few days after Christmas. A particularly welcome event, especially in 1915.

Friday December 31, 1915.

I went to Swindon and sold butter 12/- 12 0

Bt Groceries 2/6 Meat 2/3 papers 1/- Cigarettes,

Soap & Diary 3/3 9 0

Dog Biscuits 2/8 Sauceges 7d Sundries 2/6 5 9

Paid Carter 17/- William 14/6 Walter 14/6 Frank 8/-

Clarence 5/6 2 19 6

3 14 3

Carter, William, & Walter, attending to Cows

Frank not at work

Clarence took the milk first time instead of Frank

Amy, & Dora Ody, & Babe, went up to the school tea. Amy was the sole means of they having a tea. She had no difficulty in Begging the money. Miss Dora & Dolly Ody Mrs Newth Mrs & Miss Hale Miss Habgood Mrs Webb Mrs Painter & Mrs W. Ody took their Children & assisted. About a 100 children attended. It was quite a success. Mr Leighton School master & his wife worked hard preparing the school etc.

Weather rough wind & stormy

God save the King

Read more about the Elliot Woolford diaries on the Friends of Lydiard Park website.

This old image of Hook Farm taken 1940-1960 is published courtesy of the Friends of Lydiard Park.

Boxing Day 1899

Continuing the story of Elliot Woolford, tenant farmer. December 1899 and Elliot spent his first Christmas at Hook Farm with his brother Rowland.

Tuesday December 26, 1899 St Stephen. Bank Holiday

Got a Gun Licence out for Rowl. 10/- 10.0

Gave Mother 10/- for Household Exs. 10.0

Sent £13. 15/- to Bank.

Went up to Mr Owen Hales. “Creeches Farm” shooting

Rowl shot two sparrows all told. Could not find a rabbit

Started 2 Blackbirds these escaped unhurt with the exception of a little fright & palpitation.

We spent the evening with them viewing photos of the family and indulging in a few games with the childrens playthings the Party broke up at 11.15 pm all perfectly sober.

Weather Dull foggy & raining all the forenoon

Very quiet Xmas Generally No doubt owing to the War

Image of Creeches Farm taken 1880-1890 is published courtesy of the Friends of Lydiard Park.

The day before Christmas

In 2025 I shall continue my research into the life and times of Elliot Woolford (farmer at Hook Farm) and the parish of Lydiard Tregoze based on his diaries. Selected volumes of the diaries can be viewed on the Friends of Lydiard Park website.

In 1899 Elliot Woolford moved to the village of Hook where he took over the tenancy of Hook Farm, part of the Lydiard Park estate. Elliot kept a meticulous diary recording daily work on the farm from 1899-1940. In this unique archive we learn about changing practices in agriculture as he continued to modernise and develop the farm. He writes about family members, friends and neighbours, social and national events and life on the declining Lydiard Estate.

Read about the day before Christmas 1902. Work carried on as usual but Elliot also records his sorrow at the sudden death of his much loved mother.

Tuesday December 23, 1902

Mother Died to Day at 2.40 o.clock P.M.

Cut 425 Sprouts 17 Bags Savoys etc

I went to Swindon & delivered vegetables received Cash 1 15 0

Bought fish 6d Butter 1/3 1 9

Paid Mobeys for their labour 9/- 9/- & 4/- 1 2 0

Gave Ellen 20/- to get mourning 1 0 0

£2 13 9

2 3 9

Mother died this afternoon at 2.40 Rowl, Aunt Martha, Ellen, Fanny Matthews, & Father was there also Fred Woolford’s wife “Bessie” She died very happy & passed away without pain while in Rowls arms as he was trying to turn her over. We feel her loss to us we were so attached to her for she was most devoted to us all & ever studdying our well being & comfort and could never do enough for us. She asked to see Sam but he did not arrive till after she had been fallen asleep two hours. I went over in the Evening.

Weather Mild

Frances Ann and William Woolford are buried in St Mary’s churchyard, Purton. Image published courtesy of Duncan and Mandy Ball.

Pictured seated are Elliot and his wife Amy with their son Rowlie in the garden at Hook Farm.

Elliot died in 1941 and is buried in Hook Cemetery with his wife Amy who died in 1962. Hook Cemetery was laid out in 1891 in a field gifted by Viscount Bolingbroke. This field, formerly called Ables, was once part of Hook Farm.

The Pitt and Osman family – a life in service

Today few occupations can guarantee a job for life but in the 19th century it was quite different. In 1871 there were 1.4 million women in domestic service – 6.5% of the total female population. One in three girls between the ages of 15-20 worked as kitchen maids and housemaids – and one record breaking Swindon family notched up an incredible combined service of over 160 years extending across three generations.

In 1818 James and Elizabeth Pitt moved to their new home, one of three stone built tied cottages in Mannington Lane. An agricultural labourer, James was first employed by tenant farmer Richard Dore King at Mannington Farm and later by Richard Strange who in 1835 signed a 12-year lease on the 237-acre farm.

The Pitt couple had five daughters, Eliza, Leah, Jane, Mary Ann and Martha, all baptised at St. Mary’s Church, Lydiard Tregoze and of whom four were destined for employment at Mannington Farm.

Eldest daughter Eliza worked as a ‘house servant’ for over 24 years. In the 1860s the going rate for a housemaid was £14 per year, all found, the hours were long and the work hard. Leah served the Strange family at Mannington Farm for just two years due to her untimely death at the age of just 18. She died on October 26, 1841 in Cricklade where she was then working in service. The cause of her death was given as ‘Visitation of God.’

Third daughter Jane put in an impressive 24 years’ service at Mannington Farm. She began work in 1839, first as a house servant then after her marriage to groom Thomas Osman in 1859, as a dairymaid. Fourth daughter Martha also began her working life as a house servant at Mannington. By 1871 she had been promoted to Lady’s Maid to Richard Strange’s daughter Julia.

Elizabeth Pitt died in 1871 and her husband James in 1882. An elaborate and expensive memorial, probably erected by their appreciative employer, marks their grave in the churchyard at St. Mary’s, Lydiard Tregoze.

Julia Strange took over the running of the farm after her father’s death and by 1891 there was a whole host of Pitt descendants employed in the household, including Martha aged 52 and Jane Osman’s two daughters, 21 year old Julia who is a housemaid and Louisa 28, cook. The Mannington Farm tenancy changed hands in the late 1890s ending over seventy years of Pitt/Osman family service to the Strange family.

Julia Strange moved to Didcot. She died at Acland Home, Oxford in 1911 and was buried with her parents in Radnor Street Cemetery in a grave spanning three plots.

Jane Osman died aged 73 at her home, Mannington Cottage, in 1899 by which time the ancient churchyard at St. Mary’s was closed. Her husband Thomas died in 1909 and her sister Martha Pitt in 1909. All three are buried in Radnor Street Cemetery, close to the Strange family grave, neighbours in death as in life.

The Strange family grave

James and Elizabeth’s grave in the churchyard at St. Mary’s, Lydiard Tregoze.

Rev Thomas Trafford Shipman

The re-imagined story …

We gathered outside the farmhouse where father fired the traditional shots above the rooftop to ward off evil spirits. Then the little party of ladies and gentlemen consisting of father and I, Uncle Richard, Charles and Letty, Thomas Plummer and his sister Ellen then set off down the carriageway from Hook to Lydiard House and the parish church of St Mary’s.

Although barely eight o’clock in the morning our friends and neighbours came out of their cottages, throwing showers of rice and as we made the short walk children linked hands and barred our way until Uncle Richard threw them some coins.

Those family and friends who had not joined our merry parade were already seated in the box pews. The beautiful little parish church with its monuments to the St John family. The ancient font where Letty and I had been baptised and where I in turn would bring the child I carried to be christened and blessed by Rev. Shipman.

Rev. Shipman knew I was expecting a baby and he knew Will was not the father, but he made no judgement.

“You’re not the first bride and you won’t be the last who walks down this aisle carrying a child who is not the grooms,” he said. “Do you love Will?”

It seemed a strange, romantic kind of thing for a clergyman to ask. I’d expected him to tell me to repent of my sins, to look to Christ for forgiveness and guidance.

Will was a good man. I’d known him all my life, we had grown up together. He was reliable and dependable and hard working and his prospects were good. But he didn’t make the breath catch in my throat or the heat surge throughout my body.

Will promised he would look after me all the days of our life. He did not promise to transport me to unprecedented levels of physical delight, as Ambrose had. He probably wouldn’t even know what that meant. He does not use flowery language, or pay me extravagant compliments.

Ambrose St John, a cousin of Lord Bolingbroke, had whispered fancy words into my receptive ear, and played my body with his expert lovemaking. And then he had left. I was not the woman I had been before he kissed me, before he touched me, but he had not reached my heart.

St Mary's pews 2

Will was aiting for me at the church door where Letty fussed with my sash and straightened my bonnet.

“I know,” he whispered. “And I love you.”

Rev. Shipman baptised our daughter on Michaelmas Eve. We brought two more babies to St Mary’s to be blessed by the kindly clergyman, but he would not be officiating at the baptism of our next child.

Rev. Shipman died recently following a short illness. Sadly, he will not rest at St Mary’s among the parishioners he served so well. The churchyard is closed and discussions are in progress as to where the people of Lydiard Tregoze shall bury their dead.

The funeral of Rev Thomas Trafford Shipman takes place tomorrow in St Mary’s Church with the interment at Radnor Street Cemetery in Swindon. I will be there, with my husband.

The facts …

Thomas Trafford Shipman was born in Sedgebrook, Lincolnshire in 1831, the younger son of William Shipman, a farmer, and his wife Harriet.

After studying at St Catherine’s, Cambridge he was made deacon at Carlisle in 1856 and ordained the following year. He served as a curate at Barbon, Westmorland 1856-58 and at Christ Church, Carlisle in 1858-59. He was Rector at Scaleby, Cumberland from 1859-1866 and at Nether Denton from 1866-1872 when he became Vicar at Aspatria, a position he exchanged for one at Lydiard Tregoze where he was instituted on April 1, 1879.

He married Margaret Sidney Roper-Curzon at St Mary’s, Cheltenham on October 13, 1859. Thomas was 28 and Margaret 24. The couple had four children, daughters Alice, Ethel and Mary and a son Francis Trafford Shipman. The 1881 census records Thomas and Margaret with their three daughters living at the Rectory, Lydiard Tregoze.

new rectory

The Rectory, Lydiard Tregoze – published courtesy of Roger Ogle

Thomas died suddenly in 1884 and is buried in Radnor Street Cemetery.

Thomas Trafford Shipman (2)

Canon Brian Carne writes in Notes on Rectors, Curates, and Patrons published in Friends of Lydiard Tregoz Report No. 38 published in 2005.

“Shipman’s death must have been sudden, because it became a legend. Right up to the 1960s it was said – at least by Mrs Large – that he appeared at the top of the rectory stairs to presage the death of the current incumbent.”

George Watson – greengrocer and florist

Local farmer Elliot Woolford kept a daily diary for more than 50 years and I’m transcribing it for the Friends of Lydiard Park online Lydiard Archives project.

The diaries in which Elliot records life in the small rural parish of Lydiard Tregoze constitute an important social document. Here he discusses everything from the vagaries of the weather to crop failures; from church festivals to village goings-on; the death of Queen Victoria and the end of the war in South Africa. His writing is unaffected and his voice colloquial, the diary was written for his reference only.

In 1911 Elliot brought his produce to Swindon market and delivered to shops in the town centre. One of his regular customers was George Watson who ran a greengrocers and florists at 21 Cromwell Street. In his diary Elliot records their transactions.

Friday April 7: Received 10/6 of Mr G. Watson for rhubarb delivered last week.

Monday May 15: 1 doz Pea sticks to Swindon for Mr G. Watson.

On Friday September 22 it was Mrs Watson who greeted Elliot, paying him £1 10/- for 20 dozen cabbage.

On Saturday September 23 Elliot writes in his diary: Mr G. Watson died last night after a short illness.

George Watson was buried in Radnor Street Cemetery in grave plot E7394. Two days later Elliot writes: Received 43/- of Mrs Watson for cabbage & turnips delivered.

Annie Watson continued to run the shop after the death of her husband.

Saturday October 28: 7/6 worth of cabbage to Mrs Watson and 9 old hens @ 1/3 each.

Annie and George were both in their 40s when they married; there were no children to carry on the business.

In time Annie moved in with her sister and brother-in-law, Susan and George Fowler at 23 Salisbury Street. When George Fowler died in 1929 he was buried in grave plot E7394 with Annie’s husband. Annie died in 1945 aged 80. She was buried with both the Georges.

George Watson’s shop pictured during flooding in Swindon July 25, 1909 published courtesy of Local Studies, Swindon Central Library.

Death of Mr. G. Watson, – At his residence, 21, Cromwell Street, on Friday night, Mr. G. Watson suddenly passed away. Deceased, who was 52 years of age, was a florist, and he had recently been under medical attention for heart trouble, though the end came quite unexpectedly. Mr Watson had lived in Swindon during the last nine years, and was on the executive of the local Horticultural Society. He was also a member of the Ancient Order of Foresters. He leaves a widow, but no children.

The funeral took place on Wednesday afternoon. The procession left the house at 3 o’clock and wended its way to St Paul’s Church where the first portion of the service was conducted by the Vicar (the Rev. H.H. Rackham). The cortege then proceeded to the Cemetery, where the Rev. T.L. Mackesy read the concluding portions of the service.

The floral tributes were numerous and handsome and included two artificial wreath inscribed “A token of respect to George Watson from stallholders, shopkeepers, friends and neighbours RIP” and “a tribute of respect from members of the Queenstown Club.”

Extracts from the North Wilts Herald, Friday, September 29, 1911.

Emily Lovelock and her two husbands

One of the first guided cemetery walks I went on was at Arnos Vale in Bristol where the guide introduced us to a ‘husband sandwich’; a man buried with his two wives. As an inexperienced ‘apprentice’ I was slightly shocked (especially by the term), but since then I have come across numerous ‘sandwiches.’ People are ever pragmatic and burials were expensive, making for some unlikely grave companions. Death is a great conciliator.

Emily was born in 1869 in the parish of Lydiard Tregoze, the daughter of George and Martha Lovelock. George was an agricultural labourer and the family lived at Flaxlands Cottages. George most probably worked at Flaxlands Farm, then owned by Viscount Bolingbroke of Lydiard House.

Emily’s childhood was a rural one; Lydiard Tregoze was then out in the sticks, four miles from the industrial town centre of New Swindon. She married Albert James Fry on June 8, 1889 at the ancient parish church of St. Mary’s situated in the parkland next to Lydiard House.

But by 1891 Emily was living in busy Swindon at 22 Carfax Street with her husband James and baby daughter Florence. In 1901 James and Emily were living at 25 Turner Street. James worked as a rivetter in the GWR Works and the couple had five children ranging in age between 9 months and 11 years.

In 1911 the family were still at 25 Turner Street. On the 1911 census returns women were required to include details of their marriage and we can see that James and Emily had been married for 21 years and they had 7 children of whom two had sadly died. We also know more about the accommodation in which they lived – 5 rooms, not counting the scullery, landing, lobby, closet or bathroom.

As we can see from this headstone, Albert James Fry died in 1915, by which time the couple had been married 26 years.

Two years later Emily married her recently widowed near neighbour James William Covey and moved down the road to live with him at number 21 Turner Street. Emily had a long second marriage as well. When James Covey died in 1942 they had been married for 25 years.

Emily’s two husbands were buried together and when she died in 1951 aged 81 years she joined them in grave plot B3321, to spend eternity together, amicably.

August 1882

August 1882 and the new cemetery on Kingshill had been open a year. There were 14 burials during the month of August 1882, numbered 221 to 235 in the burial registers. In those early years most of the burials took place in Section A.

The oldest person buried in August 1882 was Richard Cowley aged 91. Richard Cowley was baptised on December 12, 1790 at St. Mary’s Church, Lydiard Tregoze, the son of John and Sarah. In 1810 he married Susannah Smith at the church where he had been baptised and they had five children (possibly more) Maria, Joseph, William, Sarah and John. In 1841 they were living in the Lodge Gate, Spittleborough Farm, Lydiard Tregoze, close to present day Junction 16 on the M4. They were living alone, both in their 50s, the children had all left home. In 1851 the couple were living near Marsh Farm, Lydiard Tregoze. No chance of retirement for Richard who still worked as an agricultural labourer. Susannah died in 1858.

The following year Richard married Elizabeth Green at All Saint’s Church, Lydiard Millicent. He was 68, she was twenty years younger. In 1861 Richard and Elizabeth lived at The Green, Lydiard Millicent. Richard, aged 70, was still working as an agricultural labourer, possibly for Anthony Kibblewhite at neighbouring Godwin Farm. By 1871 Richard was widowed for the second time; still living in Lydiard Millicent, still working.

Richard died in August 1882, aged 91. His last home was 63 Westcott Place where he lived with his youngest son John and daughter-in-law Caroline. He was buried on August 19, 1882 in grave plot A551, a public grave.

The youngest person to be buried in August 1882 was 2 month old Arthur William Thomas. He was baptised William Arthur Thomas at St. Mark’s Church on August 13. He was buried 15 days later in a babies grave plot A285 when he was recorded as Arthur William Thomas. Were his parents too distraught to notice his name was incorrectly recorded?

If William Arthur Thomas had lived as many years as Richard Cowley he would have seen man land on the moon!

In August 1882 Radnor Street Cemetery had been open a year; 14 burials took place that month, the oldest person was Richard Cowley, the youngest was William Arthur Thomas.

John and Honor Iles – a little life

And then there are the little lives, the quiet lives, the people who leave little trace. No children, no legacy, no letters, no diaries. No death notice in the local newspaper, no lengthy obituary.

John Iles was born in 1820, possibly in Broad Blunsdon, maybe in Lydiard Tregoze. Born before the introduction of civil registration, there is no birth certificate for him. Neither can I find a baptism entry but we know that by 1841 he was living in the parish of Lydiard Tregoze where he worked as a labourer.

Honor was baptised at the parish church in Lyneham on May 18, 1817, the daughter of John and Mary Burchell, and grew up in the Preston area of Lyneham.

John and Honor were married at St Mary’s Church, Lydiard Tregoze on November 12, 1844. John signed his name in the parish register, Honor made her mark. They both gave their address as Mannington, Lydiard Tregoze. John was a labourer, Honor a servant. Perhaps they worked for Richard Strange, farmer at Mannington Farm. There was little else there in that part of the parish. Or was John working at the recently built GWR Maintenance and Repair Works in New Swindon, just a short walk across the fields? Or maybe he was a builders’ labourer employed by J & C Rigby who were building the GWR company houses.

In 1851 they were living in Moredon, Rodbourne Cheney – John worked as a ‘rail labourer’. Seven years married and no children. Children were not planned in the mid-19^th century – they were either conceived or they weren’t. There was little choice. There were old wives’ tales and potions and prayers, to encourage or prevent a birth. Perhaps Honor tried them all. Perhaps there was a child, born between 1844 and 1851, maybe more than one, but they failed to thrive and appear on subsequent census returns. By 1861 the couple were living in Even Swindon. John and Honor had been married 17 years and Honor was 44, perhaps the likelihood of a child was now remote.

In 1861 they were living in Even Swindon, lodging with William and Jane Handy. In 1871 they were living in Cow Lane and in 1881 they were at 22 Eastcott Villas, still in the same area. Then suddenly it was all over. John died in January 1889 aged 69 years. He was buried on January 26 in grave plot E8467. Honor died that same year, aged 72 years and was buried with him.

And marking their grave is this substantial memorial. Who paid for it? Who installed it? Perhaps the lives of John and Honor were not so little, not so quiet, after all. Perhaps there is a whole lot about them left to be discovered.